October 14-15
This summer I worked in a "Parisian" café in Greenville with a baker, Mark who is French. He moved back to France before I quit my job and is living a half hour away in Annecy. On Friday he calls and we decide to meet for dinner with his girlfriend. I am excited about this, but I am also feeling like I am in a time/space warp and that the world is literally shrinking.
I am in the parking lot surrounded by high school kids on my cell phone when I see Mark. Surprise. He is perched on his scooter (a less powerful motorcycle) on which he plans to drive us both back to Aix les Bains, a 15 minute bus ride. I am thrilled/terrified. But I take a deep breath, strap on my helmet, and try to bury my helmet head into Mark's back as we fly into town. Each time we approach a speed bump I scream compulsively. We dart through the pedistrian-only area, trying not to plow down the old ladies or their tiny dogs. It is the best and most horrifying experience of my life. The next day I search for used scooters in the paper...
(Do you like the present tense that I used there?)
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This weekend I also went to Annecy. I had two motives. First, Saturday the town of Annecy celebrated the descent of the cows from the mountain, and I had to be a part of that, obviously. The town celebrates the release of the cows into the mountains in the spring and the return of the cows in the fall. Second, Tessa Lynch, another assistant, was having a house warming party to which many other english assistants and French folk were invited. Again, I obviously had to be there; I was desperate to meet people my age.
The cow festival was magic. "Traditional artisans" in their traditional clothing had booths set up around the pedestrial section of town. I saw people pressing apple juice from real apples. I saw a yodeler and a guy sawing wood. Accordians and cheese samples were plentiful. For lunch we ate tartiflette, an exceedingly heavy mixture of potatoes, onions, ham, milk, and about a pound of cheese per person. In the afternoon we found a nice curb on which we could watch the parade that we had all come explicitly to see. Men, women, and children dressed in old French costumes pranced down the street performing traditional dances that resembled square dances with more clapping. But we were not there to see dancers. No. After the dancers a flock of sheep followed by a heard of brown and white goats passed by, leaving offensive trails of anxiety behind them. The goats had a tendency to stop walking in the middle of the parade or to turn around and walk the wrong direction. The cows stole the show, however, with their enormous shiny bodies that reflected the tiny trees delicately strapped to their heads. About 2 feet tall, the branches, weighed down by colorful ribbons and ornaments, tipped over the side of the cow head. They looked ridiculous. Sitting on the curb, I was precariously close to their swishing tails. And on several occasions a cow would abruplty turn its head toward me, and I would find myself staring directly into its slimy nostrils. Naturally, I would let out a little scream and then offer it a kleenex.
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OK I've been writing this post for too long. To sum it up: the housewarming party was a lot of fun. I met tons of people and had a grand 'ol time. And it was a good thing I was still awake at 6:30 am because a pipe busted in the kitchen creating a icy pool on the tile floor. We stood there and blankly stared at the water before starting to run around like idiots trying to find the source of the leak. I starting throwing towels on the floor and wringing them out in the sink before realizing that the water was coming right back out onto the floor after entering the sink. Right. New plan. Call the owner of the apt. Check. The water was turned off and the flood drained by 7:15, at which point I dried myself off and went to bed.